Blog

The American Death Triangle in the real world

  The American Death Triangle in the real world Recently (Feb 2018) I wrote a blog on the forces involved in the American Death Triangle. I questioned if there were some occasions we can use this style of rigging.Note: I would recommend reading this first article...

read more

Mechanical rescue belay for 10mm rope?

  Mechanical rescue belay for 10mm rope? Putting two belay devices with assisted braking through their paces We tested rescue belays (belay devices with assisted braking) as they would function as part of a two-rope system for lightweight back-country rescue. Out in...

read more

Deploying the rope for a big canyon pitch

Deploying the rope for a big canyon pitch Using rethrow and out of the bag techniques Over the past few years, we have been descending some bigger canyons. By this I mean the pitch is longer than half the length of your rope, e.g., 30m for a 60m rope. On these big...

read more

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue In this article, we will go over how to set up 7mm Prusiks for 10mm rescue rope. This same long and short Prusik can be used as a belay and as well as a progress capture and haul. Prusik Cord The Prusik cord we chose to...

read more

Ice Anchor Testing Fox Glacier

  Ice Anchor Testing Fox Glacier Every year, Fox Glacier Guiding takes thousands of people onto the Fox Glacier. As part of their operation, they guide people on hikes around the glacier where they use ice screws for hand lines (safety lines) and for top rope ice...

read more

Baseline testing for lightweight rope rescue

  Baseline testing for lightweight rope rescue Making sure we have sufficient safety factor for 10mm rope and 7mm cord This article is about getting some hard data to back up a change in practice - using lightweight rope rescue systems. That is going from 11mm to 10mm...

read more

Let’s lighten the load

Let's lighten the load After a particularly arduous 24hrs underground and 1000m of hauling on a deep cave SAREX(Search And Rescue EXercise) we started our journey towards asking the right questions about lightweight rope rescue. Could we lighten up the backcountry...

read more

Double Fisherman’s vs Overhand Rethread

Double fisherman’s vs. overhand rethread Tying Prusik loops with a bend for your Prusik Minding Pulley For tying Prusik loops I have always used the double fisherman’s bend. However, the double fisherman’s is bulky and as a result, never sits quite right on the body...

read more

Sheet Bend vs Bowline Knot

Sheet bend vs bowline knot A knot that drives you around the bend! On a cave excursion through Bulmer cave system (New Zealand) I noticed, on two occasions, a single sheet bend rigged at the top of a fixed handline but being used as if it was a bowline knot. I suspect...

read more

Build a 9:1 pulley system with a Jigger

Build a 9:1 pulley system with a Jigger Something I am always looking to do is find new ways to make gear more useful. For rescue one of the great tools in the toolkit is the jigger (aka set-of-fours). This is a pre-constructed pulley system made, in this instance,...

read more

Rig a big canyon pitch

Rig a big canyon pitch Over the past few years, we have been descending some bigger canyon pitches. By this I mean the pitch is longer than half the length of your rope where you need to join another. You may get away with doubling your rope until the day you need to...

read more

When anchor acronyms go bad

When anchor acronyms go bad There are a lot of anchor acronyms out there in the rigging, rope and rescue world. A few examples include: SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or...

read more

Get more friction with a double Munter

Get more friction with a double Munter A number of organisations (e.g.ski patrols and glacier guiding) use a 6mm Spectra or Dyneema line for escape or access. The upside of using this type of system is it is lightweight and easily carried all day. One of the downsides...

read more

More and more about less and less

More and more about less and less. This idea has been rolling around between the ears for some time - so time to release it to the world. If we have more and more information about finer and finer detail that makes no difference to our practice then why do we need it?...

read more

What is your risk priority?

What is your risk priority? Or risk management in the real world. For the past few months, I have started to use the term 'risk priority' to describe how to manage emerging risks in the moment. A lot of the places we work are dynamic in nature. Maybe we are moving...

read more

Pulley versus carabiner efficiency

Pulley versus carabiner efficiency. It's always a good idea to be prepared for self-rescue when you are out and about climbing, caving, canyoning, or mountaineering. Make sure the gear you have can do the job and you have tried it out. One question that comes up is:...

read more

6 Training Tools for Instructors

6 Training Tools for Instructors. This article was originally written for the training of SAR volunteers however, the principles here I think are universally applicable to all instructing. We have a unique situation and opportunity training SAR volunteers: They want...

read more

Safety information: Engaging your staff

Safety information. 7 ways to make your safety information more engaging for staff. A few years ago I started up an adventure tourism company. Before we could operate I had to create a safety management plan (for an audit). I spent many days crafting a wonderful plan....

read more

Which bends for joining ropes?

Which bend for joining ropes? Testing and analysis of flat bends used for rope retrieval As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own piece of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was...

read more

Join the OTE Rescue team

At Over The Edge Rescue we have some great ideas to share.

SUBSCRIBE NOW to our BLOG and receive access to our latest developments in testing, analysis, guidelines, publications and techniques.

Powered by ConvertKit

Enter your email address

below to get the

Top 5 Hacks for Rope Rescue

Success! Now check your email to confirm your download.