Grant Prattley

Founder and consultant at Over The Edge Rescue. Rescuer, instructor, guide, author, designer, and adventurer.

Progress Capture Testing for a jigger

Progress Capture Testing for a jigger

Progress capture testing for a jigger I was about to post an article about the jigger (aka a set of fours) – how to build (and troubleshoot) using a couple of small double pulleys and cord (coming soon). I tried to remember if I had ever tested the progress capture Prusik as this would be […]

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level Once you start testing you is realise there is more testing to do. The testing aimed to push the limits of the belay for the lightweight rescue system. We decided on a 1.5m drop on 3m of rope with a 200kg load. Back in 2017, we did […]

The American Death Triangle in the real world

The American Death Triangle in the real world

The American Death Triangle in the real world Recently (Feb 2018) I wrote a blog on the forces involved in the American Death Triangle. I questioned if there were some occasions we can use this style of rigging. Note: I would recommend reading this first article before diving into this one: American Death Triangle and […]

Mechanical rescue belay for 10mm rope?

Mechanical rescue belay for 10mm rope?

Mechanical rescue belay for 10mm rope? Putting two belay devices with assisted braking through their paces We tested rescue belays (belay devices with assisted braking) as they would function as part of a two-rope system for lightweight back-country rescue. Out in the real world of the backcountry, you often don’t have dry clean conditions. So […]

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue Measuring the Prusik bight

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue This article will go over setting up 8mm Prusiks (with flexible cord) for 10mm rescue rope. These are long and short Prusiks used as a progress capture and rope grab in a pulley system. Prusik Cord The Prusik cord we chose to use was an 8mm 15kN Kordas […]

The American Death Triangle and driving on the wrong side of the road

The American Death Triangle and driving on the wrong side of the road

Have you ever been told never to use the American Death Triangle for 2-point anchor rigging as it has a pulley effect on the anchors and is considered ‘bad’ or is ‘dreaded’? In this article, we will consider the American Death Triangle in more detail and see what’s going on. What sparked my interest was […]

Baseline testing for lightweight rope rescue

Baseline testing for lightweight rope rescue

Baseline testing for lightweight rope rescue Making sure we have sufficient safety factor for 10mm rope and 7mm cord This article is about getting some hard data to back up a change in practice – using lightweight rope rescue systems. That is going from 11mm to 10mm rope for backcountry rescue and the associated change […]

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