What’s in this post? We review how to set up 8mm Prusik loops for 10mm rescue rope. Context Prusik Loops are tied with 3-wraps (3-on-3) onto the rescue rope to form a progress capture or rope grab in a pulley system for rope rescue. Pulley system setup Prusik Cord The Prusik cord we choose to […]
Category: Abseiling
Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand?
What’s in this post? This post is about the theory and testing behind why making a piece of webbing into a sling is 2x the strength of a single strand. We address the specific question about tension on a single section of sling around a carabiner at the end and draw vectors to show what […]
Lightweight Jigger Testing
What’s in this post? Testing of a lighter weight jigger (4:1CD/5:1 pre-rigged pulley system) using a 5mm Prusik and a 6mm high strength cord made with a Dyneema core with a polyester sheath. We also address the weight and volume of a jigger to compare the lighter weight version with a standard version using a 6mm Prusik […]
Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing
What’s in this post? The basics for webbing anchors: So you know why you are using webbing anchors, what to use, set up and four ways of rigging. How to rig webbing anchors efficiently: Get the right (minimum) webbing length, rather than halfway through a rigging job finding out you are short and have to start […]
Double sheet bend; but it’s fine?
Introduction I was recently undertaking testing to confirm our cave rescue setup (see the post Let’s lighten the load – update). In cave rescue, as we use the double sheet bend for rigging – being easy to adjust, especially in the middle of a rope or cord – I thought it would be a good idea to […]
Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?
Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]
Which bends for joining ropes? – Update
Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations. In 2020, […]
How much friction for your device?
How much friction for your device? We were interested to know how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular and personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the particular device the friction […]
Life on the edge: testing the edge kit
Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]
Time to meat human anchors
Time to meat Human Anchors A temporary human (meat) anchor is used in sports such as caving and canyoning, to get the first or all but the last person down, using a person (or people) that is suitably positioned in a stance where they can use the friction of rope on the rock, their own […]