Category: Abseiling

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine?

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine? Double sheet bend yosemite 10mm

In cave rescue, we had been using the Double Sheet Bend for rigging – being easy to adjust, especially in the middle of a rope or cord and easier to untie after significant loading. I was recently (2021) undertaking testing to confirm our cave rescue setup (see the post Let’s lighten the load – update), […]

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue

Setting up your Prusiks for Lightweight Rescue Measuring the Prusik bight

What’s in this post? We review how to set up 8mm Prusik loops for 10mm rescue rope.  Context Prusik Loops are tied with 3-wraps (3-on-3) onto the rescue rope to form a progress capture or rope grab in a pulley system for rope rescue. Pulley system setup Prusik Cord The Prusik cord we choose to […]

Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand?

Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand? single strand vs sling

What’s in this post? This post is about the theory and testing behind why making a piece of webbing into a sling is 2x the strength of a single strand. We address the specific question about tension on a single section of sling around a carabiner at the end and draw vectors to show what […]

Lightweight Jigger Testing

Lightweight Jigger Testing Lightweight Jigger Complete

What’s in this post? Testing of a lighter weight jigger (4:1CD/5:1 pre-rigged pulley system) using a 5mm Prusik and a 6mm high strength cord made with a Dyneema core with a polyester sheath. We also address the weight and volume of a jigger to compare the lighter weight version with a standard version using a 6mm Prusik […]

Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing

Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing webbing anchor header

What’s in this post? The basics for webbing anchors: So you know why you are using webbing anchors, what to use, set up and four ways of rigging. How to rig webbing anchors efficiently: Get the right (minimum) webbing length, rather than halfway through a rigging job finding out you are short and have to start […]

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows? 2 point floating anchor carabiner pulleys

Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update double overhand flat bend in use

Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations.  In 2020, […]

How much friction for your device?

How much friction for your device? Friction Testing

How much friction for your device? We were interested to know how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular and personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the particular device the friction […]

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit Edge Kit 4on2 Drop Test Factor 1

Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]

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