Category: Testing

Figure-8 Device Block for Canyoning

Figure-8 Device Block for Canyoning

Figure-8 Device Blocks for Canyoning 2021 Catching up with another canyoner recently they showed me a failure method for a particular Releasable Figure-8 Device Block (Releasable-8 Block) used as a setup for abseiling in a canyon. This block is called Releasable-8 Block V1 (for reference purposes) – above left and middle. It’s worth noting that rigged […]

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces RRRFG pg 65 backtie rigging

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces The other day I had a question come through about how I worked out the tension and compression forces for a post, pole or tree when you back-tie for support.  The context? Before I get to the question, we need to set the context:  The front anchor is […]

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine?

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine? Double sheet bend yosemite 10mm

Introduction I was recently undertaking testing to confirm our cave rescue setup (see the post Let’s lighten the load – update). In cave rescue, as we use the double sheet bend for rigging – being easy to adjust, especially in the middle of a rope or cord – I thought it would be a good idea to […]

Let’s lighten the load – update

Let’s lighten the load – update Two Rope Drop Testing 2

Let’s lighten the load – Update. After a particularly arduous 24hrs underground and 1000m of hauling on a deep cave SAREX (Search And Rescue EXercise), we started our journey towards asking the right questions about rope rescue. Could we lighten up our backcountry rope rescue gear while keeping acceptable safety margins? For lightweight rope rescue, […]

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update double overhand flat bend in use

Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations.  In 2020, […]

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit Edge Kit 4on2 Drop Test Factor 1

Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]

Progress Capture Testing for a jigger

Progress Capture Testing for a jigger

Progress capture testing for a jigger I was about to post an article about the jigger (aka a set of fours) – how to build (and troubleshoot) using a couple of small double pulleys and cord (coming soon). I tried to remember if I had ever tested the progress capture Prusik as this would be […]

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level

Lightweight systems – testing to the next level Once you start testing you is realise there is more testing to do. The testing aimed to push the limits of the belay for the lightweight rescue system. We decided on a 1.5m drop on 3m of rope with a 200kg load. Back in 2017, we did […]

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