Introduction I was recently undertaking testing to confirm the suitability of our cave rescue setup (see the post Let’s lighten the load – update). In cave rescue, as we use the double sheet bend for rigging – as it’s easy to adjust, especially in the middle of a rope or cord – I thought it would be […]
Grant Prattley
Founder and consultant at Over The Edge Rescue. Rescuer, instructor, guide, author, designer, and adventurer.
Let’s lighten the load – update
Let’s lighten the load – Update. After a particularly arduous 24hrs underground and 1000m of hauling on a deep cave SAREX (Search And Rescue EXercise), we started our journey towards asking the right questions about rope rescue. Could we lighten up our backcountry rope rescue gear while keeping acceptable safety margins? For lightweight rope rescue, […]
Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?
Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]
Which bends for joining ropes? – Update
Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations. In 2020, […]
How much friction for your device?
How much friction for your device? We were interested to know (as a guide) how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular but also personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the […]
Life on the edge: testing the edge kit
Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]
Time to meat human anchors
Time to meat Human Anchors A temporary human (meat) anchor is used in sports such as caving and canyoning, to get the first or all but the last person down, using a person (or people) that is suitably positioned in a stance where they can use the friction of rope on the rock, their own […]
Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck
Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck How do you figure out the forces is a common question I get when teaching a particular subject. None more so than those on an inclined plane (or slope). Rather than getting onto the whiteboard to explain, from time to time, I bring out Tippy the […]
Pulley system progression
Pulley system progression – is it worth it in practice? A pulley system progression is when you go from a small to a large mechanical advantage (MA). For example, from a 3:1s (s means simple) to 3:1sCD (CD means Change of Direction) to a 5:1s, to a 9:1c (c means compound). Note: You need some prior […]
Vlad to help – a master carabiner
Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]