Grant Prattley

Founder and consultant at Over The Edge Rescue. Rescuer, instructor, guide, author, designer, and adventurer.

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows? 2 point floating anchor carabiner pulleys

Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). II can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update double overhand flat bend in use

Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations.  In 2020, […]

How much friction for your device?

How much friction for your device? Friction Testing

How much friction for your device? We were interested to know (as a guide) how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular but also personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the […]

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit

Life on the edge: testing the edge kit Edge Kit 4on2 Drop Test Factor 1

Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]

Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck

Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck

Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck How do you figure out the forces is a common question I get when teaching a particular subject. None more so than those on an inclined plane (or slope). Rather than getting onto the whiteboard to explain, from time to time, I bring out Tippy the […]

Vlad to help – a master carabiner

Vlad to help – a master carabiner Vlad-wear-and-tear

Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]

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