Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). II can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]
Grant Prattley
Founder and consultant at Over The Edge Rescue. Rescuer, instructor, guide, author, designer, and adventurer.
Which bends for joining ropes? – Update
Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations. In 2020, […]
How much friction for your device?
How much friction for your device? We were interested to know (as a guide) how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular but also personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the […]
Life on the edge: testing the edge kit
Introduction We have used an edge kit for several years. Over this time, I have never done any testing on the combination of Purcell Prusik (Prusik on a Prusik), Prusik hitch 6mm on 8mm cord and double overhand (scaffold) hitch onto a carabiner. There has also been an assumption made that the edge kit would […]
Time to meat human anchors
Time to meat Human Anchors A temporary human (meat) anchor is used in sports such as caving and canyoning, to get the first or all but the last person down, using a person (or people) that is suitably positioned in a stance where they can use the friction of rope on the rock, their own […]
Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck
Forces on an inclined plane and Tippy the tip truck How do you figure out the forces is a common question I get when teaching a particular subject. None more so than those on an inclined plane (or slope). Rather than getting onto the whiteboard to explain, from time to time, I bring out Tippy the […]
Pulley system progression
Pulley system progression – is it worth it in practice? A pulley system progression is when you go from a small to a large mechanical advantage (MA). For example, from a 3:1s (s means simple) to 3:1sCD (CD means Change of Direction) to a 5:1s, to a 9:1c (c means compound). Note: You need some prior […]
Vlad to help – a master carabiner
Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]
The Perfect Storm
The perfect storm – keep an eye on your rigging We were on a canyoning trip recently when we were using a figure-8 abseil device as a block. Over the last eight years, I have probably rigged it over 500 times and never had an issue. However, on this occasion, all the holes in the Swiss […]
Jigger Setup: Troubleshooting
Jigger Setup: Troubleshooting As we head around various rescue groups, we find many jiggers (aka a set of fours) rigged incorrectly or operate inefficiently. Despite leaving everything in good working order, we often come back at a later time and see the jigger fairies have come in and made a mess. To illustrate my point […]