Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]
Time to meat Human Anchors A temporary human (meat) anchor is used in sports such as caving and canyoning, to get the first or all but the last person down, using a person (or people) that is suitably positioned in a stance where they can use the friction of rope on the rock, their own […]
Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]
When anchor acronyms go bad There are a lot of anchor acronyms out there in the rigging, rope and rescue world. A few examples include: SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or strong), Timely, (Angles) STRADS: Solid, Timely, Redundant, Angles, Distribution, Shockload They are all basically variations […]
Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning. For anchors a long way back from an edge, we often need to bring the anchor rigging and focal point forward to a better working position. An effective way to achieve this is by using multiple strands and pre-tensioning our rigging. When the load becomes live ideally there […]
3-Point Anchor Testing Updated and revised by Grant Prattley, OTE Rescue 2014. Based on original work by SARINZ Trust 2005. We started to research 3-point anchor loading as a result of questions asked by both instructors and students. At the time we could not find any articles or testing on this subject area. To date […]
Snow Anchor Placement A few pages exerted from the Rope Rescue & Rigging Field Guide. A quick overview of snow anchor section and placement options with strength ranges in different snow types. Put in your first name and email address and I will send you a download link.
Soil Anchor Report A report by Chris Gallagher, Field Equipment Officer, Australian Antarctic Division, March 2011. This report presents methods, discussion and recommendations in relation to appropriate rope rescue anchors and rigging systems needed for Macquarie Island. This testing has relevance to other rescue teams that need to carry ground anchors to the rescue site. […]
Snow Anchor Report Snow anchor testing for a variety of common anchors A report by Don Bogie, 2005. The strength of snow anchors is dependent on a combination of the strength of the snow in compression and shear, the strength of the materials the anchor is made, the strength and placement of the attachment system, and the mode […]
