Category: Anchors

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows? 2 point floating anchor carabiner pulleys

Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]

Vlad to help – a master carabiner

Vlad to help – a master carabiner Vlad-wear-and-tear

Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]

When anchor acronyms go bad

When anchor acronyms go bad Anchor acronyms

When anchor acronyms go bad There are a lot of anchor acronyms out there in the rigging, rope and rescue world. A few examples include: SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or strong), Timely, (Angles) STRADS: Solid, Timely, Redundant, Angles, Distribution, Shockload They are all basically variations […]

Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning

Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning

Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning. For anchors a long way back from an edge, we often need to bring the anchor rigging and focal point forward to a better working position. An effective way to achieve this is by using multiple strands and pre-tensioning our rigging. When the load becomes live ideally there […]

Soil Anchor Report

Soil Anchor Report

Soil Anchor Report A report by Chris Gallagher, Field Equipment Officer, Australian Antarctic Division, March 2011. This report presents methods, discussion and recommendations in relation to appropriate rope rescue anchors and rigging systems needed for Macquarie Island. This testing has relevance to other rescue teams that need to carry ground anchors to the rescue site. […]

Snow Anchor Report

Snow Anchor Report snow-anchor-testing

Snow Anchor Report Snow anchor testing for a variety of common anchors A report by Don Bogie, 2005. The strength of snow anchors is dependent on a combination of the strength of the snow in compression and shear, the strength of the materials the anchor is made, the strength and placement of the attachment system, and the mode […]

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