The post tackles a practical question for backcountry rescue teams: is 16mm tubular webbing strong enough for anchor rigging, given the appeal of reducing weight in a rescue kit? To find out, the team ran a series of pull tests comparing different wrap-and-pull configurations — Wrap 1 Pull 1, Wrap 2 Pull 2, Wrap 2 Pull 1, and Wrap 3 Pull 2 — across several real-world surfaces: pins, carabiners, smooth rock, sharp rock, and edge-protected sharp rock. A baseline was first established using 25mm webbing before switching to the thinner 16mm webbing to see how it held up.
Category: Anchors
Two-Point Anchor Angles: The Case for Building in Error
Challenging the rule that smaller anchor angles are better, testing how a 5-degree rigging error shifts load across two-point marginal anchor systems.
Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand?
What’s in this post? This post is about the theory and testing behind why making a piece of webbing into a sling is 2x the strength of a single strand. We address the specific question about tension on a single section of sling around a carabiner at the end and draw vectors to show what […]
Lightweight Jigger Testing
What’s in this post? Testing of a lighter weight jigger (4:1CD/5:1 pre-rigged pulley system) using a 5mm Prusik and a 6mm high strength cord made with a Dyneema core with a polyester sheath. We also address the weight and volume of a jigger to compare the lighter weight version with a standard version using a 6mm Prusik […]
Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing
What’s in this post? The basics for webbing anchors: So you know why you are using webbing anchors, what to use, set up and four ways of rigging. How to rig webbing anchors efficiently: Get the right (minimum) webbing length, rather than halfway through a rigging job finding out you are short and have to start […]
Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?
Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement when discussing a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen poor […]
Time to meat human anchors
Time to meat Human Anchors A temporary human (meat) anchor is used in sports such as caving and canyoning, to get the first or all but the last person down, using a person (or people) that is suitably positioned in a stance where they can use the friction of rope on the rock, their own […]
Vlad to help – a master carabiner
Vlad to help – a replacement for the master carabiner Back in November 2018, I decided to purchase a Grivel Vlad and put it on my harness to see if it was going to be a useful addition. The Vlad could be helpful as a master carabiner for anchor station organisation for multiple clip-ins. There are […]
When anchor acronyms go bad
When anchor acronyms go bad There are a lot of anchor acronyms out there in the rigging, rope and rescue world. A few examples include: SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or strong), Timely, (Angles) STRADS: Solid, Timely, Redundant, Angles, Distribution, Shockload They are all basically variations […]
Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning
Anchor rigging: Getting a grip on pre-tensioning. For anchors a long way back from an edge, we often need to bring the anchor rigging and focal point forward to a better working position. An effective way to achieve this is by using multiple strands and pre-tensioning our rigging. When the load becomes live ideally there […]