Category: Rope Rescue

Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand?

Why is a sling 2x the strength of a single strand? single strand vs sling

What’s in this post? This post is about the theory and testing behind why making a piece of webbing into a sling is 2x the strength of a single strand. We address the specific question about tension on a single section of sling around a carabiner at the end and draw vectors to show what […]

Lightweight Jigger Testing

Lightweight Jigger Testing Lightweight Jigger Complete

What’s in this post? Testing of a lighter weight jigger (4:1CD/5:1 pre-rigged pulley system) using a 5mm Prusik and a 6mm high strength cord made with a Dyneema core with a polyester sheath. We also address the weight and volume of a jigger to compare the lighter weight version with a standard version using a 6mm Prusik […]

Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing

Webbing anchors: efficient rigging and 16mm testing webbing anchor header

What’s in this post? The basics for webbing anchors: So you know why you are using webbing anchors, what to use, set up and four ways of rigging. How to rig webbing anchors efficiently: Get the right (minimum) webbing length, rather than halfway through a rigging job finding out you are short and have to start […]

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces RRRFG pg 65 backtie rigging

Back-tie rigging – tension and compression forces The other day I had a question come through about how I worked out the tension and compression forces for a post, pole or tree when you back-tie for support.  The context? Before I get to the question, we need to set the context:  The front anchor is […]

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine?

Double sheet bend; but it’s fine? Double sheet bend yosemite 10mm

Introduction I was recently undertaking testing to confirm our cave rescue setup (see the post Let’s lighten the load – update). In cave rescue, as we use the double sheet bend for rigging – being easy to adjust, especially in the middle of a rope or cord – I thought it would be a good idea to […]

Let’s lighten the load – update

Let’s lighten the load – update Two Rope Drop Testing 2

Let’s lighten the load – Update. After a particularly arduous 24hrs underground and 1000m of hauling on a deep cave SAREX (Search And Rescue EXercise), we started our journey towards asking the right questions about rope rescue. Could we lighten up our backcountry rope rescue gear while keeping acceptable safety margins? For lightweight rope rescue, […]

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows?

Floating anchors: But what if the anchor blows? 2 point floating anchor carabiner pulleys

Introduction Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn’t it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement quoted back to me when talking about a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, magic X, etc.). I can only think it’s based on the assumption you have: Built or chosen […]

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update

Which bends for joining ropes? – Update double overhand flat bend in use

Introduction As part of writing the Canyoning Technical Manual, I needed to find out more about flat bends. For my own peace of mind, I had to make sure what I was putting in the book was suitable. We undertook some testing in 2015 including a control test and five flat (offset) bend variations.  In 2020, […]

How much friction for your device?

How much friction for your device? Friction Testing

How much friction for your device? We were interested to know (as a guide) how much a lowering device can hold for rescue in particular but also personal use. The testing is for practical use when out on a rescue, training or instructing a group about how much it can hold in relation to: the […]

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